Campo San Giorgio, the Vertical Tasting with Daniele Cernilli

At the Wine Not? Bistrot in Ancona, a special vertical tasting of Campo San Giorgio Conero Riserva took place. This was a journey through time spanning seven vintages, offering a glimpse into how this Cru evolves over the years, with the participation of professionals and sommeliers who work with wine daily.

Leading this special tasting were Michele Bernetti and Daniele Cernilli – also known as Doctor Wine – an internationally recognised authority in the world of wine and the author of the Essential Guide to Italian Wines. The vertical tasting covered seven vintages of Campo San Giorgio, the result of extensive family experience and tradition, combined with a commitment to enhancing the winemaking heritage of Conero, with Montepulciano as its historic grape variety. The journey began with the first vintage released, 2009, and continued through 2010, 2012, 2013, 2016, 2019 (the current vintage), and included a preview of 2020. The tasting followed an approach recommended by Giacomo Tachis and shared by Doctor Wine. It revisited the climatic and harvest conditions of each vintage, uncovering stories, nuances, and specific aromas in each glass.

During the event, Cernilli highlighted the stylistic consistency across the vintages and the clear, precise expression of their origins. He also emphasised how Campo San Giorgio epitomises professionalism, craftsmanship, and respect for the terroir – an identity-driven wine capable of expressing and enhancing the characteristics of a Cru.

The Campo San Giorgio project, initiated in the early 2000s on a small plot selected for its exceptional qualities within the Osimo vineyard, located at its highest and breeziest point with an easterly exposure, ensuring sunlight from dawn to dusk.This project, realised by Michele Bernetti and the Umani Ronchi technical team, aimed to express the utmost elegance of Montepulciano. It became a reality in 2009 with the first extremely limited production.

Here below some pictures of the vertical tasting, followed by a dinner curated by Leonardo Castaldi, resident chef at Wine Not? Bistrot, and the notes on the vintages sampled. A heartfelt thank you to everyone who participated, contributing to the success of this in-depth exploration of Campo San Giorgio.

Vintage Notes

Campo San Giorgio 2009
A relatively regular growing season with good rainfall in winter and spring, followed by a dry summer. The nose is mature and elegant, with aromas of dark cherry. Ethereal and complex, this is a Mediterranean wine with velvety tannins.

Campo San Giorgio 2010
A rainy season, with precipitation persisting into the harvest period. A late vintage, the colour is more intense, and the aroma features notes of blood orange, an uncommon trait in Montepulciano. Less astringent than 2009, the 2010 vintage has more acidity, reflecting the harvest conditions.

Campo San Giorgio 2012
A hot and particularly dry year, producing sweet and perfectly balanced tannins. Deep ruby with garnet edges. The palate is rich and powerful, with balsamic undertones interwoven with fruit. The finish is warm and long-lasting.

Campo San Giorgio 2013
Spring and early summer were marked by rainfall, creating excellent water reserves that supported vegetative and productive growth. A bold ruby with purple highlights. The nose features notes of mint and marjoram over a base of sour cherries and dark chocolate. The palate is rich, balsamic, fresh, with smooth tannins.

Campo San Giorgio 2016
A cool year that emphasised acidity rather than power, with moderate tannins lending the wine a beautiful balance. The nose reveals hints of black cherry with iodine-like notes.

Campo San Giorgio 2019
A mild, dry winter was followed by a cold, rainy spring that restored good water reserves. A well-balanced vintage during maturation, with delicate, silky tannins. It achieves a perfect balance of structure and acidity. On the nose, it expresses notes of small red berries, blueberries, and currants, with a hint of strawberry tree (arbutus unedo) fragrance.

Campo San Giorgio 2020
A preview of a vintage whose nuances will be further defined with time.