Plenio, a Masterpiece through 10 Vintages: the Vertical tasting by Gambero Rosso

In the year of the special award Winery of the Year 2024, Gambero Rosso has published the Vertical tasting of our Verdicchio Plenio Riserva, an iconic wine born from the hills of Cupramontana. An extraordinary journey through 10 vintages, from 1996 to 2021, curated by Marco Sabellico, Gianni Fabrizio, Lorenzo Ruggeri, shared with Michele Bernetti and the international press.

Plenio, 10 interpretations for a great Verdicchio: The full article

Scores and reviews:

Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico, Plenio 21 - 92
Born of a hot vintage, it has a bright and youthful straw-yellow colour; intense on the nose, although still very young and therefore not fully expressive yet, where only the classic varietal aromas of fresh white fruit, citrus, almond, and slightly green and lymphatic sensations are discernible, very refreshing; powerful and rich palate but still monolithic, with a granitic balance on strength and fullness. To be awaited.

Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico, Plenio '20 - 96
Straw-yellow and vital, brilliant colour; intense on the nose but slightly closed, with beautiful notes of almond but also mineral hints that make the whole more complex, albeit young; in taste, it is decidedly different from 2021: it enters severe and acidic and it ends really long and savoury, with a slight and typical bitter note. A very vertical wine with great aging potential. Delicious spicy finish with nuances of almond, spices, minty notes...Impressive.

Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico, Plenio '18 - 94
Dense and intense straw-yellow with a lively appearance. Intense on the nose, with aromas of fresh and dried aromatic herbs, green tea but also a nice citrus note enriching the bouquet, very classic with a background of almond. The palate is harmonious, with great menthol freshness and great harmony, a stretched, symphonic, very long and well-paced finish. Classic.

Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico, Plenio '16 - 90
Bright and youthful in appearance, it offers an intense and already quite accomplished nose, with notes of dried white fruit, apricot, white chocolate, then also medicinal herbs and a light hint of spicy and sweet tobacco; the palate is rich for the grape variety, with width and pulp but without ever losing the fresh part of the grape. It closes long on exotic notes of papaya, honey, and barley candy. Opulent.

Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico, Plenio '13 - 95
Just golden straw, very youthful and brilliant; intense and very mineral on the nose with aromas of flinty stone, rarely felt in other vintages, then also a great note of fresh herbs, a nice evolved tone of saffron, then a beautiful note of almond that wraps everything up. The palate is powerful and compact, with enormous potential even today, but also with an alcohol force. Rich in acidity, it has nerve and momentum and is very long. Ginger and wasabi on the aftertaste. Fascinating.

Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico, Plenio '10 - 92
Beautiful intense and vital gold colour with some greenish shivers. Intense and broad, it has a complexity ranging from notes of medicinal herbs to hints of fresh grain, passing through aromas of almonds and spices, with very fine woody notes; powerful and rich palate with a long finish on a pleasant bitter note that balances the previous sensation, which is wider and more comfortable, where a salty note emerges clearly, still turning towards almond and chestnut honey. Captivating.

Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico, Plenio '08 - 97
Magical vintage... It is full-bodied and brilliant, incredibly youthful. It opens intense on the nose, characterful, complex, with notes of wood that are sensed for a light spicy touch that gives seasoning to the whole more classic part of the variety (almond, medicinal herbs, ginger, saffron, and iodine). It is a very complex and harmonious wine: it has great structure but above all a magical balance that puts acidity and sapidity at the centre with much yet to say in the future. Surprising.

Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico, Plenio '05 - 90
It has a beautiful, very lively and brilliant antique gold colour. On the nose, it is intense, with beautiful notes of malted barley and a touch of cocoa. Then comes a clear sensation of candied orange and wheat. On the palate, it opens with great complexity but also an evolved character so particular that it might not please everyone; the palate is powerful and harmonious without sweetness or bitter sensations - resin perhaps - quite long, with a final flash of tannins and bitter almond. Maturity.

Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico, Plenio '99 - 94
Golden straw with still greenish reflections. Intense bouquet with notes of aging sweetness and also hints of saffron and sweet spices, then also ginger and candied orange peel, and again delicate nuances of medicinal herbs and raisins. In the mouth, it is complex and fine, rich and wide but with a great verve given by a saline note of enormous character, long and not bitter finish. When you say the barrique...

Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico, Plenio '96 - 93
The second vintage produced: intense and lively straw-yellow, intense on the nose with beautiful notes of ginger and medicinal herbs; then tobacco and saffron but with a tone of candied fruit and honey. Great finesse and complexity for a wine at the peak of evolution. The palate is dense and thick: beautiful pulp and great freshness that gives breath to a long and biscuity finish, with notes of coffee and licorice but still surprisingly fresh. At the threshold of thirty years...